>> Welcome of "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope"... >> Ha ha ha!

>> where you join us as we accept the world's invitation to visit.

>> Today on "Travelscope," I visit Quebec, Canada, and explore the many sides of Montreal, the French-speaking city with a European flair.

>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

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>> Founded along the banks of the Saint Lawrence River in 1642, Montreal has grown to become the largest city in the French-speaking province of Quebec and the second largest city in Canada.

For 26 miles along the Saint Lawrence River, from Old Montreal to beyond Mount Royal, there are numerous neighborhoods, cultures, and attractions.

Join me on my Montreal, Quebec, Canada, adventure.

Like most visits to Montreal, mine begins in Old Montreal, where my guide Nathalie takes me to the Place d'Youville, where the 1893 obelisk honors the first settlers and the original site of the Mission Ville-Marie.

So this spot is where it all began, where Montreal began.

>> It is.

Actually, Ville-Marie, the name of the first settlement, it started here in 1642.

You've got the Saint Lawrence River right ahead of us.

So it created a V-shaped piece of land, very convenient, surrounded by fresh water.

So they thought, "Hey, it's the perfect place.

Let's call it home."

The first purpose, and I quote here, was "to convert the savages of the New World" to Catholicism.

So this was a religion-based settlement.

>> Nathalie, we didn't have to go far from the monument to the first settlers to find a little bit of history.

>> What you're looking at is the signature of the head chiefs of the Amerindian tribe that were in the area.

So in 1701, the governor of Montreal invites those tribe to come to Ville-Marie in order to sign a peace treaty that would allow an easier type of commerce between the settlers and, of course, the Amerindian.

>> Well, so before Montreal could become the great commercial center with a port, it had to start somewhere.

It's always good to start with a little peace.

>> Usually is.

>> You know, Nathalie, ever since those early days of the first settlers, I know that Montreal has changed quite a bi >> It has changed.

The first major change was actually in 1763 because at that point, we became British.

So we got conquered by the British.

So at that point, this predominantly French and Catholic settlement becomes English and Protestant.

>> So what is Montreal today?

Is it a French town?

Is it a Canadian town, English town?

What is it?

>> I'd like to say all of that.

Actually, Montreal is French; it's English; it's multicultural, but it has, also, that European joie de vivre.

>> Ha ha ha!

Thank you, Nathalie.

I get to experience modern Montreal's happy hour--cinq a sept.

I understand that's 5:00 to 7:00, but it really starts at 4:00, and-- >> Finishes whenever.

>> Ha ha!

Sante.

>> Cheers.

A sante.

>> Since the city's earliest days, the French culture of Montreal has distinguished itself through its religion, language, and food.

You should be my expert on poutine.

>> Yes.

I am.

>> Now, how did that name ever come about?

>> An Englishman ask somebody who was making fries, "Can you put in some cheese..." >> Put in.

>> "on top of it."

So the French guy understand poutine, and then it becomes their name.

>> So he's back there putting together the ingredients?

>> He's making poutine.

So we have golden brown French fries, and he's gonna put some cheese on top of it... >> There he goes.

>> mozzarella cheese curd... >> Right.

>> and then he's gonna pass it to me, and I put some sauce on top of it.

>> Wow.

Let's see the final touch here.

>> Merci, monsieur.

>> Ah, and what is this gravy?

>> This is vegetarian gravy.

>> Vegetarian gravy.

>> Yep.

It's soy-based.

>> So it's a little healthier.

Come on.

>> Come on.

Yeah.

>> How healthy can this be?

>> I mean, it's the best.

>> I'm gonna try this.

>> Yeah.

>> Let's go give it a try.

>> Let's go.

Thank you.

>> Ah, merci.

>> Je te'n prie.

Bon appetit.

>> Merci.

Well, if you're looking for a down-home taste of Montreal, poutine c'est cela.

That's it.

Mark Twain said that Montreal was "a city where you couldn't throw a brick without breaking a church window."

Old Montreal has more than its share of houses of worship.

Located on Place d'Armes, the Montreal Notre Dame Basilica is foremost among them.

Capable of serving 3,000 worshippers, it sports a stunning altarpiece and choir, ornate woodwork, a star-strewn ceiling, and a lofty, handcrafted pulpit.

Not as imposing at the cathedral, yet equally impressive, is the oldest chapel in the historic quarter--Notre Dame de Bonsecours, Our Lady of Good Help.

It was built in 1655, just 13 years after the founding of the settlement of Ville-Marie.

It's called the Sailors' Chapel.

It's so named because sailors who had had their prayers answered and had survived harrowing experiences at sea brought models of their ships here to the church and left them in gratitude.

With 4 Roman Catholic masses a week, it is still actively serving its community.

Montreal is called the City Of A Hundred Steeples, and towering above them all high on Mont Royal is the Saint Joseph Oratory.

Saint Joseph's Oratory is significant for many reasons.

One is its spectacular location on the top of Mount Royal.

Two, it has the second largest copper dome in the world at 131 feet--the only one larger is Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome--and three and most important is because it's a pilgrimage site, and, although it's called Saint Joseph's Oratory, the man that people come to pay homage to is Saint Brother Andre, who is known for his curative powers, and every day, you'll see pilgrims in search of a cure for themselves or a loved one climbing these 100 wooden steps on their knees.

The oratory's imposing entrance complements the grandeur within, but it's Saint Joseph's blessing and Brother Andre's help that the pilgrims seek.

Within the Votive Chapel, they can pray surrounded by canes and crutches that attest to the miracle of Saint Brother Andre's healings and bask in the light from more than 10,000 vigil candles.

They can lay their hand on Brother Andre's tomb or gazen wonder at the case that holds his heart.

In the grand basilica which evolved from Brother Andre's modest chapel, they can join other devotees under the dome in communal celebration.

Not all gatherings of Mont Royal are religious.

Not far away in Mont Royal Park, I join a congregation of Montrealers who have gathered to dance.

Nathalie told me that Montreal is a multicultural city, and here I am, at Beaver Lake up at Parc Mont-Royal, and there are a number of people here dancing to folk music.

>> ♪ Yay yay yay yay yo!

♪ >> He's been coming to these things for 50 years.

>> Yes.

>> Do you dance all these dances?

>> No, no, no, not now.

>> Not now?

But you did... >> Yes.

>> when you were younger... >> Yes.

>> and this happens... >> Every Thursday.

>> every Thursday here... >> Yeah.

>> at Beaver Lake.

>> Yes.

>> Monday, you come, and you learn.

>> Yes.

>> How many of these dances do you know, Gilbert?

>> Everybody.

>> You know all the dances?

>> Yeah.

>> Can you teach me?

>> Sure.

Come on.

[Music playing] >> Hey!

>> ♪ Yay yay yo!

♪ [Applause] >> Montreal is a city of many neighborhoods, and the best way to discover them is by bike.

There are more than 360 miles of bike trails.

I follow Martin and Shea of Fitz & Follwell on their 'Hoods and Gems tour.

>> Here's the beautiful mountain, the Mount Royal.

>> The name of the city comes from the mountain.

>> Absolutely.

Montreal, you know?

Often, we think of a city like the dntown or the old neighborhood would be, like, the center of the city, but for Montrealers, the mountain is pretty much the center of the city.

>> All right.

>> So you can go from the Old Montreal for two hours, 30 minutes all the way to Little Italy, passing by all kind of cultural neighborhoods.

>> From the foot of the mountain, we ride through some of Montreal's most famous neighborhoods--the Latin Quarter, the Gay Village, and the Plateau, where we bike through Duluth Avenue, one of the city's most colorful art and cafe districts, on the way to Square Saint-Louis.

>> Behind us, we have some of Montreal's best examples of typical residential architecture.

An architectural style started to become quite popular in the mid 19th century which are mansard roofs, or these sloped-angled rooftops.

Now, when the buildings were out to the sidewalk, it posed a hazard during the wintertime.

Snow and ice could fall on people's heads as they were walking by.

So the city created a bylaw that stated if they were using mansard roofs, their buildings had to be 10 feet set back from the sidewalk.

So in order to save space, they decided to bump the staircases to the outside of the buildings.

>> Clever.

>> Clever, and it also created nice, beautiful garden green space out front.

>> And so it's kind of like an icon or a trademark now of Montreal, these outside steps.

>> Exactly, every iconic symbol of Montreal.

>> Wow.

Your tour is called 'Hoods and Gems, and this is obviously one of the hidden gems.

>> Oh, for sure.

Where we are now is an alleyway which, much like one that exists between every two streets in Montreal, it was built as a service road for the horses and carriages.

So they would make delivery-- things like coal in the winter, ice for iceboxes in the summertime--and eventually, the city decided they wanted to beautify the alleyways.

So a little over 10 years ago, the Plateau started the Green Alleyways project.

>> It's a little bit better than garbage cans... >> Exactly, exactly.

>> and the people who live here are the ones who maintain this.

>> They're the ones who maintain it, and if they don't upkeep their work, they'll lose their Green Alleyway designation.

Sometimes you might come through at night, and they might be having a party.

>> It seems that Montrealers are always trying to beautify things.

>> That's very true.

So we made it to the last stop on our tour here at Parc La Fontaine.

However, the reason we've stopped right here at this point is because this is the beginning of every other bicycle trail in the province of Quebec.

This is the zero mile marker.

>> Well, it's quite clear that the best way to discover Montreal seems to be on bike.

>> For visitors coming to the city, they have a lot of options.

They can bring their own bike and ride around.

>> OK. >> They could rent a bike from a number of places, or the other option for shorter trips is using the Bixi bike share system, and the idea is that you can pick up a bike at any of the 500 stations and drop it off at another station.

That covers most of central Montreal.

>> Well, experiencing Montreal by bike is absolutely wonderful.

>> Thanks, Joe.

We had a great time.

>> Merci beaucoup.

Thank you, both, for introducing me to it.

>> Merci beaucoup.

>> A bientot.

>> A bientot.

>> A bientot.

>> A bientot.

>> I began my next day in Mile End, Montreal's former Jewish immigrant neighborhood, where I'm put to work making some of Montreal's best bagels.

Oy vey.

>> Make sure you get all of them.

I see some in there, Joseph.

>> Yeah.

Uh...OK.

I'll get them.

I'll get them.

OK, and then just in here.

So we got to make sure the seeds cover the whole bagel, and I don't know if your customers are gonna think that they're getting too many seeds or too little seeds, but I'll do my best here.

And what is this thing here called that you take the bagels in and out with?

>> That's called a shiba.

>> Sheba as in the Queen of Sheba?

>> No, as in Yiddish for board or plank.

>> OK. All right.

This was the Jewish community for many, many, many years... >> It certainly was.

>> the immigrant community right after the war, for instance.

>> Absolutely, and mh of our clientele is still Jewish.

It's very diverse.

You have the Italians, the Greeks, the Polish.

We see a nice melting pot of everybody.

>> A good example of that is, here we are in the Jewish bakery owned by Italians... >> Owned an Italian.

>> and today with a Cuban helping out.

So it's got a nice, little spice of multiculturalism.

>> We got everybody.

We got everybody involved in the Montreal bagel scene.

>> Tremendous.

Man does not live by bread alone, and he doesn't need to in Montreal, a city full of public neighborhood and seasonal markets.

I join a local chef on a forage through Montreal's popular Marche Jean-Talon.

I'm with Chef Eloi Dion, and we're here at the Marche Jean-Talon, one of the major markets here in Montreal.

>> The major market, I would say.

>> The major market.

So I'm gonna help you out.

You tell me what you're gonna get, and I guess we have to buy some.

Now, these are from here in Quebec?

>> Yeah.

They're all local grown.

>> Uh-huh.

>> These are Oriental cucumbers.

Lebanese cucumber, they call, very easily to digest.

>> If you want to use, like, the cucumber, all of the skin, you're gonna try to use a cucumber more like that that the skin is less bitter, and you're gonna give more color to your salad.

>> So, Chef, what else do need?

>> We're gonna get some wild herbs.

>> Ooh, let's go.

>> Good.

>> There's Benois from Jardins Sauvages.

>> Bonjour, bonjour.

And these are all wild herbs?

>> All wild herbs.

>> We have about 80 pickers throughout the farm in sweaters for wild herbs and mushroom.

>> What do they taste like?

>> Well, you got this one here that's a sea spinach.

>> Uh-huh.

>> It's a wild plant that we use as spinach, and the saltiness comes from the air surrounding it.

>> I can taste that.

>> So whatever you do with spinach, you can dwith that.

You can have them raw in salad with vinaigrette or as saute with some garlic to accompany some pasta.

>> Well, Benois, merci beaucoup.

>> Bye.

>> What are we gonna get next, Chef?

>> We're gonna get the first apple of the season.

>> OK. >> Let's go.

>> Mm!

>> That too sour?

>> No, not too.

>> Yeah.

Well, they're gonna get sweeter with time.

Like, that's the first batch.

>> This is the first apples of the season.

>> First apple of the year.

>> Where do these apples come from?

>> Quarante-cinq minutes de Montreal.

>> "45 minutes from Montreal."

>> 45 minutes.

OK. Do you like doing this?

>> Oui.

J'aime le public.

J'aime les pommes.

J'aime présenter les pommes.

>> She like people.

She like apples.

She like to present apples.

>> Hey, want more do you need, huh?

>> That's it.

>> So, Chef, how are you gonna use this?

>> I'm gonna use it in a salad, and they give me a little sweet and sour punch.

>> I can't wait to taste this salad.

From the market, it's a short stroll to Chef Dion's restaurant, where he puts the fruits of our hunt to excellent use.

Ahh...merci, Chef.

>> De rien.

>> Saumon sauvage a la Chef Dion, wild salmon using every ingredient we picked up in the market.

This is a fine example of Montreal's farm to market to table cuisine.

Bon appetit.

Mm.

Ready for dessert?

Just steps away in one of Little Italy's patisseries is a shop full of traditional dolce.

How many cannolis do you do?

>> 25,000 every week.

>> 25,000?

>> Yes, at least.

>> And it's ricotta?

>> Yes, ricottand chocolate inside, sugar, and whipping cream, just a little bit whipping cream.

Last touch.

Now you make last touch.

>> What's that?

>> You have to eat.

>> All right.

Well, I'm glad to do it.

Here's a little-- Ah, OK. Grazie.

>> See you... >> OK. >> next time.

>> Mm.

With 6,000 restaurants and more than 85 cuisines, Little Italy is just one of many cultural areas here in Montreal.

Caffe Italia is the perfect place to have my cannoli with the best cappuccino in town.

Grazie.

>> You're welcome.

>> Salute.

Italians are Montreal's third largest ethnic group, and in Little Italy along Boulevard Saint-Laurent, la bella vita, the good life, lives on.

Buongiorno.

>> Hey, buongiorno.

>> Buongiorno.

Buongiorno, buongiorno.

>> Buongiorno.

>> Are you from here, Montreal?

>> Yeah, yeah.

>> So is there still a very vital Italian community here in Little Italy?

>> Yes.

Everybody still speak Italian.

>> People speak Italian... >> Yeah.

>> Italian food.

>> Yeah.

>> I love this place for cappuccino.

>> I been coming here since 1964.

>> 1964?

>> Yeah, 48 years.

>> Here.

I'll sit down with you, actually.

Let's sit down here.

>> You haven't tasted granita here?

>> Granita?

No.

That's a kind of a-- >> You want one?

>> It's like a dessert.

>> You want one?

>> I'll get--yeah.

>> [Speaks foreign language] >> Look at this.

This is great, and it's very strong, too.

Grazie.

Molto grazie.

>> Yes, signore.

>> It's summer in Montreal.

That means it's festival time.

Whether it's the jazz festival or the Just For Laughs festival or the film festival or the francophone festival, all summer long, there's something going on.

One of the most popular events of the summer is the Montreal Fireworks Festival.

From La Ronde, an amusement park on Ile Saint-Helene, pyrotechnical companies from around the world produce 30-minute-long pyro musical shows once or twice a week from June through July.

Considered the largest fireworks competition on the planet, close to 6,000 fireworks are set off during each show, and more than 3 million people each year witness this explosive celebration.

[Cheering and applause] One of the don't-miss attractions here in Montreal is the Botanical Gardens.

It's the second largest botanical gardens in the world.

It's 185 acres.

It was begun in 1931 and consists of a huge arboretum, 30 distinct gardens, 10 exhibition greenhouses, and 3 cultural gardens, including a First Nations garden where you learn how the First Nations people lived with nature.

Most important thing, leave enough time to enjoy it all.

The Botanical Gardens' abundance of natural riches illustrates the fact that, while Montreal is a prosperous urban center, Montrealers prize nature.

That sensibility is particularly evident in the Biodome of Montreal, with its 4 ecosystems of the Americas--Polar regions, tropical rainforest, Laurentian forest, and the Gulf of Saint Lawrence.

With close to 5,000 animals, on a visit, you can see everything from monkeys, beavers, and otters to spoonbills, puffins, and penguins and huge lake sturgeon.

When the French explorers came up the Saint Lawrence River, they were stopped by the Lachine Rapids, which hindered further travel west.

Well, into the 19th century, the 3-mile-long rapids continued to be a challenge to shipping.

Well, these days, the rapids have been tamed...almost.

It's ton of fun running the rapids in a jet boat, but it's also possible to have a one-on-one experience with the river.

What kind of activities do you guys do on the river?

>> Here at KSF, we do whitewater kayaking, river surfing, and stand-up paddling.

>> Let's get me started here.

>> OK.

So we have a board.

Basically, it's very easy, and this why it's getting more and more popular, because you don't need so many things.

>> So let me get geared up, and we can get going.

>> Sounds great.

>> As Hugo said, paddle boarding is easy.

At least it seems that way, yet, just like horseback riding, if at first, you don't succeed, try... try... try again, and before you know it, you're doing it.

What a ride.

Merci.

A good place to dry out and get a healthy dose of Montreal spirit is Mont Royal Park, where you can join in on a local tradition.

Since the 1970s, Montrealers have gathered every Sunday afternoon in summer here in Parc Mont-Royal around the statue of George Cartier for Tam-tam, the drum circle, for drumming, dancing, and good times.

I'm with Valli, Rachel, Joshua.

>> Brought my grandchildren.

I've got 3 more.

I'm gonna bring them next time.

The spirit and liveliness and the joy that goes on here is infectious.

>> What is it about Montreal that makes it a place in Canada where something like this could happen?

>> We love festivals.

We love parties.

We love music, all kinds of people here, and they're wonderful.

>> David, have you been here at the drum festival before?

>> Yes.

I've been.

I come for rhythm, enjoy the people, and it's done out of freedom spirit of liberty.

When they play tam-tam... >> Yeah?

>> I kind of dance to pay back.

They play, I dance.

That's the deal.

They play, I dance.

That's the deal.

>> Do you come every Sunday?

>> Every Sunday.

>> Can you play a little bit of your drum for us?

Thank you for joining me on my Montreal, Quebec, Canada, adventure.

In the French-speaking city of Montreal, joie de vivre is not just a phrase.

It's a way of life, and summer is the season for celebrating.

From music to dance to fireworks, festivals abound, and every neighborhood throws a party.

People are friendly.

Life is easy and carefree, and when you visit, you'll discover many ways to join the fun.

Until next time, this is Joseph Rosendo reminng you of the words of Mark Twain-- "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness."

Happy traveling.

Au revoir.

Hey.

>> "Joseph Rosendo's Travelscope" is made possible by San Antonio, Texas, where you'll find art, culture, romance, authentic Tex-Mex, 50-plus golf courses, and hundreds of attractions.

San Antonio--Deep in the Heart.

And No-Jet-Lag jet lag prention.

For a DVD of today's show or any of Joseph's "Travelscope" adventures, call 888-876-3399 or order online at Travelscope.net.

You can also e-mail us at TV@Travelscope.net or write us at the address on your screen.

>> Now that we've explorethe many sides of Montreal, Canada, learn more at Travelscope.net, where you can follow my worldwide adventures through my e-magazine, blog, podcast, and on Facebook.

Stay in touch-- 888-876-3399 or TV@Travelscope.net.

>> Joe, say something to me and clap.

OK. Mm.